This is the latest. What are you using?
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White Lightening here, near the end of the bottle though so recommendations welcomed!
Not being a shop, it’s been over four years, and I’m still using the same bottle of Phil’s Tenacious Oil and a tube of Park grease I had to buy around the same time.
Pedro’s Bio Grease will get a shot next time around, but Phil’s has suited me much better for “daily driver” chain lube. It’s the one direct product of petroleum I’ll never give up, no matter how many pelicans it kills (less than one).
Semi-related, I just got an 80g syringe of assembly paste. That’s a lifetime of carbon seatposts and handlebars.
Oh, and since I was reminded by the ad in Google Reader after posting… I also have not one, but TWO 2oz bottles of Tri-Flow. I see it at my neighborhood hardware store in an 8oz bottle, but I don’t see going through half of it.
ProLink Gold. Love it.
Boeshield for chains. Lubrimatic Marine Wheel Bearing Grease for bearings and assembly. You can keep your overpriced overhyped Phil’s
I explained why years ago here : http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?139241-What-Grease-for-campy-hubs
If that doesn’t work just google : lubrimatic marine grease Raiyn
It’ll be result #2
i’m using either ProLink or Chain-L on my chains or at the shop if the customer expresses no preference. White Lightning on customer chains by request.
Chain-L is something new that i’ve been playing with. it’s a bitch to apply because it webs like crazy, necessitating a thorough wipedown of excess. but it runs really quiet and stays on well. ProLink is very thin, and tends not to cake if you reapply without wipedown.
i despise chain lubes that cake up all over the drivetrain. dumonde tech might lubricate well, but it takes 2-3 times longer to clean parts in the solvent tank compared to other lubes, cakes like a mutherficker, and you can never completely remove it from cogs or chainrings with a matte finish (ultegra and many newer campag).
for grease i use either Sta-Lube multipurpose marine grease or Finishline Teflon grease. i’m starting to lean towards the Finish Line stuff because it’s a little thicker,doesn’t oil separate,and doesn’t really web, so it makes overhauling bearings quicker since it’s easier to handle and apply. also, since it’s slightly translucent white, it’s really easy to tell if there are contaminants in the grease.
The big issue with chain maintenance is the removal of dirt and debris (both thrown up from the road and erosion of the pins). The choice of lubricant is less important for chains that are filled with debris as it forms an abrasive oily or waxy paste of sorts regardless of what the specific lube is.
Cleaning and re-lubing is thus far more important than your choice of lubes.
I’m a big fan of the KMC removable quick links for cleaning purposes so I can really wash and flush the whole chain off the bike (usually just wish dish detergent but sometimes with methanol). I use motorcycle chain spray on lube for the chain and just wipe off the excess.
I hate those waxy based lubes, like someone mentioned they just cake up all over the place and make a mess.
Yes, it’s well accepted that bike branded lubricants are complete extortion (in fact higher quality lubricants are availlable for much, much cheaper).
I got what is a lifetime supply in bike terms of the two types I use for < 20$
I use an NLGI # 2 Calcium Sulfonate grease for all my bottom bracket stuff (especially cup installation) and headsets and an NLGI #1 moly thicknened grease for all my wheel bearings.
I think they are both dow corning products.
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